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Cyclura cornuta is found only on the island of Hispaniola in the Caribbean Sea (Hamlett 2002). A closely related species or subspecies (scientific opinions vary) was found on Navassa Island, but is now believed extinct. There is a living subspecies on Mona Island, near Puerto Rico.

Cyclura cornuta is one of the world’s most magnificent iguanas. Their large, impressive appearance make them a very desirable species to own. They get their name from three horn-like outgrowths on the end of their nose. Male Cyclura cornuta are larger than females and develop larger horns. Males are highly territorial.

They are a dusky gray or olive green in color, with barely visible dark cross bands, which allows them to blend in with the rock and scrub brush of their natural habitat. Males are larger than females and develop larger horns. Males are highly territorial.

Size

Vary in length from 60 to 136 centimetres (24 to 54 in)

Life Span

+20 years

Caging

The size of the enclosure for a juvenile should be 1.2 x 0.6 x 0.6 meters (4 x 2 x 2 feet) and 3 x 3 x 1.2 meters (10 x 10 x 4 feet) for a single average sized adult. Strong well fixed branches/logs and rocks add a more naturalistic look to the enclosure alongside with some foliage. Make sure your enclosure is well sealed. It’s recommended to have a decent amount of ventilation in your enclosure. High humidity and high heat make parts of your enclosure very susceptible to mould and bacterial growth. The additional ventilation keeps a nice air flow going throughout the enclosure and helps to stop such things from happening.

Heating & Lighting

Nothing replaces real sunlight no matter how great the lamps are. When possible it is very highly recommended to give your rhino iguana access to real sunlight, even if it is 1 hour a day or once a week during the warm days. You may need to have a portable or permanent outside enclosure like a mesh sunning cage. Juvenile rhino iguanas need a hot spot inside the enclosure that gets 41-42 ºC (106-108 ºF) with full spectrum UVB light and a cool side of the cage with ambient temp 26-29 ºC (80-85 ºF). They should spend some time thermo regulating in the hot zone as well as in the cool zone of the cage through the day.

Heat may not be needed during the night if the ambient temperatures don’t fall below 21 ºC (70 ºF). You can set the lights and heat to stay on automatically for 12 hours on and give them 12 hours of night time.

It’s important to comprehend temperature zoning in an enclosure where ventilation is paramount to establish the enclosure zoning. Enclosures such as tanks of box type with sliding glass door are very difficult to ventilate properly. Most off the shelf enclosures do not provide sufficient ventilation. Thus the enclosure will be near impossible to temperature-zone properly.

The caution is if the room is not heat/cool regulated, A. the enclosure must have alternate heat source, and B. A temperature controller to ensure when the room temperature rises beyond a certain point, the basking lamp and other heat generating sources must be turned off else the enclosure’s temperature will exceed what the iguana’s limits in rather a short period of time.

Diet

We recommend feeding your juvenile rhino iguana freshly grown organic greens, vegetables, fruits and flowers with alfalfa supplements. It is very important that iguanas get proper nutrition through their lives and especially the first few years. Their favorite greens and vegetables are: collard greens, dandelions, mustard greens, turnip greens, watercress, tatsoi, bok choy, butternut squash, carrots (occasional only), nasturtium flowers or leaves, hibiscus flowers, fresh figs (when in season), mango, papaya, etc. There are many other plants that can be fed to your iguana.

We use these proportions when making iguana salad: 80% greens, 20-15% vegetables, NONE-5-10% fruit all year round, plus just a sprinkle of dry alfalfa supplement. We recommend chopping greens in very small bite-size pieces that would fit easily in juvenile’s mouth. Hard vegetables like winter squash should be peeled and pureed into consistency of “baby food” and mixed well with greens. As your iguana gets bigger you can adjust the bite sizes accordingly.

Fruits are always popular with iguanas, but please be aware that they will learn to pick the fruit out and will start to ignore the rest of the healthy salad. Fruits are high in sugars and will make small juvenile iguana feel full and not hungry through the day. Especially bananas are very filling and high on potassium. It is too easy to give in and feed them treats all the time, but it will teach your iguana to become a picky eater that can slow down growth and development.

We recommend feed fruit not more than 1-2 days a week and only about 2-3 bites to juveniles. You can also use fruit as a treat when teaching your iguana to come to you and taming it. Iguanas will also eat a lot of variety of weeds and fresh tree leaves. They particularly like mulberry leaves, some grape leaves, fig tree leaves, pomegranate tree leaves and variety of other fruit tree and bushes leaves.

Water & Humidity

It’s good to have shallow water dish available inside the cage. Rhino iguanas usually don’t drink much water if you feed fresh green diet every day. Iguanas extract moisture from the plants. So, don’t be alarmed if you never see your iguana drinking.

Humidity Ideally 60-85%. You do not need humidifiers inside the cage, rhino iguanas do well with just regular room humidity, even if it’s 40% or less. But if it’s too dry, you can sprinkle or mist the cage once a day or during the shed times to help them peel. Occasional bath is also good and will help to hydrate your iguana during dry season or if it needs help with shedding. In low humidity areas 10 to 30% and consistently <50% it’s recommended to bath regularly part for shedding but more so for the general health of the iguana’s skin.